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缇娅娜的贵州课② | 堆绣——方寸之间有乾坤

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  开栏语


  Introduction


  中国西南,多彩贵州孕育独特神韵。山水胜境之间,文化厚壤之上,贵州国际传播中心主播缇娅娜(Kucherova Tatiana)将开启一场探索之旅。


  In Southwest China, the vibrant province of Guizhou is a cradle of unique charm. Amidst its stunning landscapes and rich cultural soil, Kucherova Tatiana, an anchor from the Guizhou International Communication Center, embarks on an exploratory journey.


  《缇娅娜的贵州课》由此诞生。带着好奇与热情,在少数民族聚居地,感受丰富的文化遗产与独特的生活方式;在自然盛景中,倾听贵州以独有的方式述说地球的故事;在酸辣交织的美食文化中,品味地道的贵州风味;在浓郁热闹的节庆氛围中,体悟贵州人的精气神……


  Thus begins "Tatiana's Lessons on Guizhou." With curiosity and passion, Tatiana delving deep into Guizhou. She immerses herself in the rich cultural heritage and distinctive lifestyles of ethnic minority communities, listens to the unique ways Guizhou narrates Earth's story through its natural wonders, savors the authentic flavors of Guizhou's spicy and tangy culinary culture, and experiences the vibrant and festive spirit of local celebrations.


  在这片古老而充满生机的土地,缇娅娜的每一次探访都充满发现的喜悦与学习的乐趣。跟随她的脚步深入贵州,踏上一场文化和自然的旅程,倾听隐秘而动人的故事,感受跨越国界的美丽与感动,通过她的视角,我们将看到一个既熟悉又新奇的贵州,一个值得细细品味的贵州。


  On this ancient yet lively land, every visit is filled with the joy of discovery and the delight of learning. Follow Tatiana's footsteps into Guizhou, embark on a cultural and natural journey, listen to the hidden and moving stories, and feel the beauty and emotion that transcend borders. Through her perspective, we will see a Guizhou that is both familiar and new, a Guizhou worth savoring.


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  第二期节目,延续“寻找苗绣”主题。这次缇娅娜与贵州五彩黔艺民族服饰博物馆馆长、清华大学美术学院博士陈月巧要探访的,是另一种特殊的苗绣技法——堆绣。不同于传统的以针线为主的刺绣方式,堆绣还加入了另一种主角——绸缎布,也称丝绫布。堆绣的方式,是将不同色彩和大小的用绸缎布折叠而成的小三角形或方形排列堆叠,再用针线固定。如此一来,在方寸大的布片上,能看到层层堆叠形成的立体而细密的纹样。


  The second episode of the series continues the theme of "Seeking Miao Embroidery." This time, Tatiana and Chen Yueqiao, the curator of the Guizhou Colorful Qianyi Ethnic Costume Museum and a Ph.D. from Tsinghua University Academy of Arts, are visiting another unique Miao embroidery technique—pile embroidery. Unlike traditional embroidery that primarily uses needles and threads, pile embroidery also incorporates another element—satin fabric, also known as silk brocade. Pile embroidery involves arranging and stacking small triangles or squares made from folded satin fabric in various colors and sizes, which are then secured with stitches. This creates a detailed and three-dimensional pattern on a small piece of fabric.


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  缇娅娜在绣娘家学习制作堆绣绸缎布


  堆绣的制作过程十分复杂精细。在位于贵州台江施洞的绣娘刘妹福家,缇娅娜和陈月巧观看了用于制作堆绣的原材料——彩色绸缎布的制作过程。刘妹福凭借多年的经验,配制染液、浸染布料,再用皂角米对晾干的布料进行上浆,光是绸缎布的制作便已相当繁复。而后,她们又去到位于巴拉河畔的绣娘欧告引家,向她学习堆绣的绣制过程——裁剪绸缎布、叠制小三角形、搭配颜色、设计纹样、缝针固定,一块小小的堆绣绣片,可以说凝结了绣娘很多的心血。


  The production process of pile embroidery is incredibly complex and meticulous. In Liu Meifu's home in Shidong, Taijiang, Guizhou, Tatiana and Chen Yueqiao observed the production process of the colored satin fabric used in pile embroidery. With years of experience, Liu Meifu mixes the dye, soaks the fabric, and then applies starch to the dried fabric using soapberry powder, making even the creation of the satin fabric quite intricate. Then, they visited the home of the embroiderer Ou Gaoyin by the Bala River, learning the embroidery process—cutting the satin fabric, folding small triangles, color matching, pattern designing, and stitching to secure everything. A small piece of pile embroidery embodies much of the embroideress's effort.


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  着盛装的苗族姑娘


  堆绣的色彩搭配以该苗族支系所喜欢的红色、蓝紫色为主,其传统纹样则以记录历史和崇敬自然等主题为基础,这与苗族人的发展历史有着千丝万缕的联系。堆绣纹样中最具代表性的有太阳纹、万字纹、八角纹、漩涡纹,动物纹多为鱼纹、龙纹、鸟纹等。这些具有民族崇拜意义的纹样绣片装饰在衣服的后衣领和前襟处,作为一种精神力量存在。


  The color scheme of pile embroidery primarily features red and blue-purple, which are favored by this branch of the Miao tribe. Its traditional patterns are based on themes of recording history and revering nature, closely linked to the developmental history of the Miao people. The most representative patterns in pile embroidery include the sun pattern, the swastika, the octagon, and the vortex, with animal patterns often depicting fish, dragons, and birds. These patterns, which carry significant cultural reverence, are embroidered on the back collar and front lapels of garments, serving as a spiritual force.


  拍摄期间,恰逢当地举办一年一度的台江苗族姊妹节。在这个以苗族青年男女谈情说爱为主题的“东方最古老的情人节”里,苗族妇女们穿上亲手缝制的苗绣盛装,参与盛大的游行,尽情享受这个属于苗族人、属于苗绣的高光时刻。包括缇娅娜在内的现场观众,无一不被这盛大的场面和华丽的苗族服饰所惊艳。


  During the filming, the local Taijiang Miao Sisters Festival was held, which is considered the "oldest Valentine's Day in the East" themed around the romantic interactions of Miao youths. Miao women, dressed in hand-sewn Miao embroidery, participated in a grand parade, fully enjoying this highlight moment for both the Miao people and Miao embroidery. Everyone present, including Tatiana, was amazed by the magnificent event and the exquisite Miao costumes.


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  苗族姊妹节盛大现场


  当以苗绣等为载体的苗族文化被更多人看到和欣赏时,其作为中华优秀传统文化的组成部分,能带给人们独特的文化滋养,也能增强民族的文化自信。这种深刻的文化体验能激发人们的传承与保护意识,又去反哺苗绣及苗族文化的持续传承与发展。通过《缇娅娜的贵州课》节目,缇娅娜希望能让更多人感受到传统文化的魅力与传承的意义。


  As Miao embroidery and other aspects of Miao culture gain wider visibility and appreciation, their role as integral parts of China's excellent traditional culture can provide unique cultural nourishment and enhance national cultural confidence. Such profound cultural experiences can inspire people's awareness of heritage and protection, further nourishing the continuous transmission and development of Miao embroidery and Miao culture. Through the program "Tatiana's Lessons in Guizhou," she hopes to help more people experience the charm and significance of traditional culture.




  贵州日报天眼新闻记者

  策划 闵捷 庞博

  执行 王旗 Kucherova Tatiana 郭加尧 刘义鹏

  编辑 陈大炜

  编审 庞博